As I slowly and deliberately eat my way through Japan, I`ve discovered two certainties regarding the food- first, Japanese food does not include chicken teriyaki, and second, sample even the most repulsive in appearance- it could rank as one of the best meals of your life. My latest favorite, monjayaki resides in the category labelled, “Looks nasty, tastes great,” as it closely resembles a myriad of substances one would only eat under the threat of torture or starvation.
Monjayaki Image via Wikipedia
Andretti-san, culture guide and sensei to the Clampitt clan, had been bragging, loudly and consistently, about his culinary skills most effectively demonstrated in the creation of monjayaki. It was time to hold his feet to the fire, or hand to the griddle in this case. But how to highlight his culinary chops outside of his own kitchen? An island in the middle of Tokyo, Tsukishima. Home to an entire street specializing in monjayaki with the creative name, “Monjayaki Street.” Patrons were allowed to ruin the meal themselves by self cooking or assure a more savory product by engaging a server to conduct the official business. The time had come for Andretti-san to roll up his sleeves.
Our restaurant choice was driven by creativity of the logo rather than reputation.
The ingredients were promptly delivered table side.
Several items caught my attention as the bowl was placed between us. First, the dried shrimp on the top, meat like substance Andretti-san identified as corned beef, bonito flakes (the olive oil of Japan) and the presence of a viscous, yellow soup at the bottom. Eating any one of these items would have been difficult but the thought of eating the mixture was appalling.
He started by stir frying the ingredients at the top. I lost hope of stomaching this meal as I watched the tiny shrimp melt on the grill.
Once the ingredients were cooked, he shaped them in a doughnut. Inside the hole, he poured the liquid. Apparently his doughnut hole was perfect since the soup did not leak out of its stir fried container.
Once the mass was gelatinous, Andretti-san stirred it all together. The color changed to dark yellow. He pronounced the putrid, yellow mash “Done.” Oh God. The time of reckoning. I`d seen more appetizing mud pies.
As if tasting it wasn`t enough of a challenge, there was also a particular method for devouring this goo. Not quite a liquid, not really a solid, a special tool called a “hagashi” is used to shovel this tasty delight in to one`s mouth. Right off the hot griddle. Too soupy for chopsticks, but very gluey, it stuck to the hagashi. Therefore, it was eaten like so:
Sakuratie Restaurant
Monja aficionados claim a special technique for proper eating- placed in one`s mouth with the food facing the tongue, versus the roof of the mouth, in order to deliver a more powerful piquant punch.
In some way, which I`m certain defies the natural order of the universe, this concoction was delicious earning a coveted top place spot on Ouisar-san`s “Must Learn to Make Before Leaving Japan” list. Tiny dried shrimp and all.
Andretti-san validated his claim as Master of the Monjayaki and the Nose claimed this to be the only form of cabbage she would eat.
High praise indeed.
Check out other “Best Of Japan” at Japingu`s J festa….here
Hey from Japan- or wherever the moving van arrives- Emily Cannell 
Wow, that looks truly disgusting, but I’m sure it was indeed fabulous. Facing food bravely, one of the true challenges of living in Japan. Omedeto!
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Very true Lisa, Very true!
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That actually sounds pretty good…… Not that I got any chance at all of finding anyplace that would serve that here in rural N. Texas……. 🙂
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I`m sure you would give it a try! Thanks for stopping in Mr. Idiot.
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I was in Japan for three weeks many years ago, but never got the chance to sample that lovely dish. I did learn, as you have, though, to try it all, but maybe close my eyes at the same time.
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And pinch the nose sometimes…Just in case it`s super stanky.
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i’ve eaten it on that island. tastes better with beer.
i’m doing an article for cnngo on tsukishima. can i use your photos? i’ll give you CNN credit. let me know. 🙂
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Of course you can. Truly one of my favorites it okonomiyaki….
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That is one of the best restaurant logos I’ve ever seen. It says chef, stop in the name of love, and spatula tomfoolery all in one. I’d have gone in as well.
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I know- it is the cutest! I want it on a tshirt…
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I have never seen anything look more disgusting in my life. But then I’ve never been what you might call an adventurous eater! And in this instance, I’m afraid that inclination might have served me well. Holy vomit, Bat Man!
Kathy
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You hit the nail on the head Kathy. Luckily it tasted great!
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Oh my god!!!! That looks like the kind of thing I see on the pavements here in London, the morning after a Friday night!
*covers mouth and looks away in nauseous awe*
Okay, glad it tasted good but damn, what guts to even try it because just the looks put me off.
ACK!
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You really can`t look at it while eating! True as to its appearance….
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Wow you’re brave, I think I would stick with the pro cooked option.
On the CFL front BC Lions and Winnipeg Blue Bombers have finished in first place in their divisions.
Hamilton and Montreal, Calgary and Edmonton face each other today in the semi finals.
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You will have quite a day in front of the tv Bob= ENJOY!
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Hamilton beat out Montreal in overtime and Edmonton thumped Calgary.
I’ll be in the stands here in Winnipeg this Sunday when Hamilton comes to town for the East Final.
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Oh good Bob- we`ll be looking for you on tv!have fun!
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holy nasty looking! but good for you for embracing it…! (I never could quite stomach the spiedo uccellini where we lived in n. italy, basically little bird kabob)
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hahaha! Little bird kabob. I think the only thing I`d have a hard time eating on a kabob is guinea pig.
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I have to say that Reggie ate something that looked like that this morning. But my hat’s off to you for trying it! You’re a brave woman.
Why is it common to go to a restaurant and then cook it yourself? Is it not something you can prepare at home? (I ask cautiously)
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You can definitely prepare at home- this is the only place I know of where customers want to prepare on their own. Might be because you can make several types and customize the ingredients.
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Looks a bit like odd scrambled eggs. I’m always very impressed with what you’ve eaten and tried in Japan! I wish I could taste some for myself. 🙂
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Truth is your Spanish family dinner post inspired this one. The Clampitt clan will always try anything- once!
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I actually thought it looked a bit like scrambled eggs, too. Here I was, thinking “that’s not so bad!”, but then I read everybody else’s comments about it looking like vomit. I stand corrected.
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It does look like scrambled eggs!
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Ok, so I can deal with how all the ingredients look pre-cooked – even the dougnut ring isn’t too terrible… but I guess I would need a blindfold to go much further! As for eating it the way I eat ice-cream – I’ll stick with ice cream, thanks!
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If you could get that far you could go the distance Lu!
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I forgot to ask – does it at least smell good? 🙂
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Ummmm-yea? Once you get used to it!
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Konbawa Emily-san,
How’s life in Japan? I never did try this dish while there and I’m sure I wouldn’t have been brave enough once I saw it. Almost like manju and other stringy, glommy stuff.
Still hope I will return to Japan one day and see those still around I used to know. What do you know about Ibaraki-ken, Kitasoma-gun, Moriya town (it changed from a town to a city, machi to ?)
Keep writing.
Gonbatte kudasai!
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Tar buns- you have me on that. Nothing is the short answer but I`ll have to check it out! I hope you get to come back to Japan soon! And あれがと がざいます。
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モンジャは美味しいよ
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もんじゃ すきです。度もあれがと。
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Heloo~!
im japanese.from hiroshima.
monjyayaki is goo!
next time you camebacke hiroshima.
& get a hiroshimastayl okonomiyaki!
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ひろしま 生きたです。あれ我と がじます。
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Awww! you made me craved for Monja-yaki!
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Don`t you hate it when that happens!
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I don’t operate by too many rules, but one of my most often followed ones is to avoid eating anything gelatinous and dark yellow at all costs. Ickkkk!
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Which I believe are solid rules by which to live!
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I still can’t bring myself to eat, especially when I see the dried shrimp flakes moving around like they are alive. It smells good though. You might have convinced me to give it a try.
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You could do it! You’re the adventurous type!
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Yes, It was curiously delicious And better with a beer! Not too many eateries make me run out and buy three t-shirts but that was one. And it obviously made quite a subconscious impression because I bought an “accessory” for my phone at Hibaru Market in Lexington, Ky. I thought it was the Daruma Buddha but it was your little t-shirt guy (sans spatula)!!!! And when you turn him on his side his eyes pop out! He must be cooking the food with his laser vision! You must take The Tourist there if you have time! I Miss Ya’ll!!!!
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I had no idea that was what that was! Monja man returns!
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wow, I’m like a kid and I eat with my eyes so this dish would indeed take an effort to try. Great post though
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That is really funny- yes- you would have a hard time with this one!
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“Looks nasty, tastes great” . . . Mmmh, will have to take your word for that! I’m quite glad that Willie has settled on Thai food as his Far Eastern cuisine of choice. Their food just looks far more appealing. Although I try and avoid smelling the fish sauce.
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The food is so hard for many Wesrerners. It’s a good thing we’re all adventorous eaters!
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OMG I would eat lima beans before that stuff and I would rather die than eat lima beans.
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half cooked okonomiyaki? 😛
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It eventually got cooked!
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Actually reminded me of Okonomiyaki, which I have tried. But I think I’ll have to try this at some point too, hagashi and all.
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Very similar to okonomiyaki- a little more mushy. But has a nice flavor to it!
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Monjayaki is an original dish of Tokyo.
Okonomiyaki is Osakan … Monja is from Tokyo .
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Ah- I did not know that! Thanks Tokyo 5!
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Although I have photoblogged the okonomiyaki I have so far refrained from trying to take photos of monjayaki – so glad you have bitten the bullet for us on this one! (^-^) I was there only a couple of months ago myself. I totally agree with you, monjayaki is the best repulsing looking food you will ever have. The recipe is simple too, but getting that hot plate installed in your private kitchen might not be. My favorite monjayaki is the one with the pickled plum sauce, although this slightly sour taste can take it one step too close for comfort for most westerners. (^-^;)
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“This” is supposed to be “nasty”? It just looks like scrambled eggs with veggies and stuff mixed in, still runny.
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I just saw this dish for the 1st time watching a drama! I told my friend that we have to find a “real” Japanese restaurant, not these American versions! I’ve seen too many dishes that I must try! The changes that I’ll get to Japan are far and few between!! Thanks for this post!
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My daughter and were taking last night about how Japanese food is not what we were used to in the U.S. And Italian food- thank goodness as I’m not a fan of over oregano’ marinara sauce!
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